Old noble estates and the forest hideouts of outlaws, once brought to life in the pages of Marija Jurić Zagorka’s novel, now tell stories of fine hotels, wineries, restaurants, and outdoor adventures

Ever wished you could step between the pages of a book you were reading and live out the adventures of your favourite characters? Allow us to suggest you spend your long winter evenings with Zagorka’s novel and once the spring sun warms up the Slavonian plains, set off on this exciting journey, page by page.

Pejačević manor, Osijek - Retfala

For your “literary expedition,” choose Osijek’s Retfala as your base, home to a lesser-known but central setting of the novel, the Pejačević family manor. Today it houses a private clinic, so you can’t tour the interior, but even a glance at its baroque façade evokes the luxury and romance of the 18^th century. Visit the impressive Opus Arena Stadium (www.nk-osijek.hr/opus-arena) just across the street, take a stroll or ride along the riverside promenade, and enjoy a taste of 21^st-century luxury at the nearby District Boutique Hotel (www.boutique.dev.district.hr).

Water gate and Pejačević houses, Osijek - Tvrđa

Like the heroine of Zagorka’s story, follow the Drava downstream to Osijek’s Tvrđa, the old citadel. You won’t find magicians with potions here, but just past the Water Gate lies Holy Trinity Square. Here you’ll find the former Pejačević residence, now craft brewery General von Beckers (www.facebook.com/beckersbrewery), where you can savour a rich dark Mangulica beer. At the western end of the square stands another Pejačević house with a baroque statue of the Virgin Mary, and just around the corner you can dine or stay overnight at the famous Merlon (www.merlon.hr). 

Prandau-Normann Castle, Valpovo

Much like Zagorka’s heroes, let your path take you to Valpovo Castle. Its massive Gothic tower was built by the Morović family, proud members of the Order of the Dragon, defenders of Europe from Ottoman invasions. In the 18^th century, the Prandau barons and Normann counts transformed the fortress into a baroque palace. Learn more about its history at the Regional Museum of Valpovo (www.ustanova.valpovo.hr/muzej-valpovstine), then relax at the Hotel and Restaurant Park (www.restoran-park.hr) at the edge of the castle park.

The Adamović estate and historic Korođgrad, Čepin

Beyond courtly intrigues and love affairs, Zagorka’s novel is, at heart, a grand outdoor adventure. While the trip from Osijek to the Adamović family estate in Čepin is now a short drive, in the 18^th century it would have been a perilous trek through bandit-filled marshlands. By the 19^th century, the swamps were transformed into fertile farms like Ovčara, famed for delicacies made from the local Pfeifferica pork. Try some at the Crna Svinja Restaurant (www.terranegra.hr/restoran), unwind at Hotel Materra (www.hotelmaterra.com), and then explore the surroundings by bike — from the ruins of Korođgrad, said to hide stolen treasure, to the charming Zelenkrov Hotel & Café (www.zelenkrov.hr) at the entrance to Čepin. 

The confluence of the Drava and Danube – Adamović-Cseh Estate, Erdut – Aljmaš

Downstream from Osijek, the 18^th-century banks of the Drava were home to river “pirates” who ambushed passing boats. The pirates are long gone, but the mysterious floodplain forests remain, and they’re best explored by bike along the Porić Trail or through the vineyards leading to Erdut Tower and the Adamović-Cseh Manor, now home to Erdut Wines with its legendary 75,000-litre barrel (www.erdutski-vinogradi.hr). For breathtaking views of the Danube meanders, visit one of the local wineries that also offer accommodation, such as Vinotel Brzica (www.brzica.com). 

The end of the Slavonian outlaws, Našice

The dense forests of the Krndija mountain were once the stronghold of Slavonian outlaws, who often targeted the Pejačević family’s estate and castle in Našice (www.zmn.hr). You can visit the castle and its scenic fishponds, enjoy dinner at Našički ribnjaci (www.nasicki-ribnjaci.hr), and spend a peaceful night surrounded by nature. The last and most famous hajduk, the "lord robber" - Čaruga, was arrested in 1925, marking the end of the more than two-century-long era of the somewhat "romantic" Slavonian forest robbers.

Napisao: Mislav Pavošević