Sombor whispers beneath the shade of plane trees, Subotica dazzles with its Art Nouveau charm, and between them, the „Salaši“ quietly preserve the spirit of the old Pannonian world

“Life flows at a gentle pace…” – thus sings Zvonko Bogdan, and thus life unfolds on the left bank of the Danube. The tamburica players follow the rhythm, keeping alive the traditions cherished in Sombor and Subotica, two towns whose histories were deeply shaped by the Bunjevac Croats. Sombor whispers beneath the shade of plane trees, Subotica dazzles with its Art Nouveau charm, and between them, the salaši quietly preserve the spirit of the old Pannonian world.

The green city and heart of the danube basin

Sombor lies in the north-west of the gentle Bačka plain and is known as the greenest city in Vojvodina, where every street rests in the shade of tree-lined avenues, and horse-drawn carriages are still a daily sight.  Its Town Hall, Milan Konjović Gallery, and Holy Trinity Square tell stories of a time when life moved slowly. Sombor is also the birthplace of Zvonko Bogdan, whose songs capture the essence of this land where tamburicas, horses, and endless plains connect Bačka, Baranja, and Slavonia.

The city and its surroundings hide a wealth of natural beauty, most notably the Gornje Podunavlje Special Nature Reserve, a first-category protected area stretching along the left bank of the Danube. Part of a vast wetland complex linking Hungary and Croatia, it has held Ramsar status since 2007. Visitors can enjoy eco-educational trails, birdwatching, photo safaris, and guided excursions through pristine Danube forests, especially along the Karapandža Educational Centre and the Štrbac and Bestrement trails.

In the heart of this region lies Bački Monoštor, alongside Sonta, one of the largest Šokac (Croatian) villages in Bačka, surrounded by river branches and canals accessible only by bridges. The Šokac community here still speaks, sings, and weaves much like their kin in Baranja. Be sure to visit the Mali Bodrog Ethno House, over 150 years old and preserved in its original form, and the Novitet Dunav Weaving Workshop in Bezdan, a state-protected cultural monument where traditional textiles are still made. The locals are masters of fish stew (riblji paprikaš), so don’t miss the beloved taverns along the Danube, like Čarda kod Švabe, Pikec, Kod Carine, and Šebešfok.

Art Nouveau splendour and Bunjevac soul

About 60 kilometres north, the twin city of Osijek – Subotica – welcomes visitors like an open-air museum of Art Nouveau architecture. Its magnificent City Hall, the Raichle Palace, and the Subotica Synagogue rank among the most beautiful examples of the style in this part of Europe. Nearby, the Palić lake offers serene walks, excursions, as well as the famous Zvonko Bogdan Winery, an architectural gem of Pannonian Art Nouveau design where visitors can savour fine wines while gazing across endless vineyards.

In the nearby village of Tavankut, the Bunjevac Croats preserve their traditions, language, and culture. A unique local treasure is the Gallery of Straw Art, the only one of its kind in the world, featuring intricate works made entirely from straw, and the Balažević Ethno Farm, which keeps the authentic Bunjevac heritage alive. Here, guests can stay overnight, enjoy local meals, and even learn to dance traditional Bunjevac folk dances to the sound of tamburicas.

Salaši – guardians of the rural way of life

The countryside between Sombor and Subotica is dotted with salaši – traditional farmsteads once built by herdsmen and farmers, now transformed into peaceful oases of rural charm. Here you can taste homemade food and wine, take part in farm work, go horseback riding or carriage driving, try your luck at fishing, or simply enjoy the silence of the plains. Out of about a hundred salaši in Vojvodina, some thirty welcome visitors, including Naš salaš, Sedam dudova, and Dida Hornjakov salaš near Sombor; Majkin salaš, Salaš Đorđević, Jelen salaš, Vinski salaš Čuvardić, and the Zvonko Bogdan winery salaš near Subotica.

Written by: Katarina Anđelković