Interview and text by Ivana Rab Guljaš

Do Slavonia and Baranja get enough recognition in the world of wine and gastro tourism? If so, how?

Ivan: Slavonia and Baranja are gaining recognition in the wine and food market thanks to premium wines like Graševina, unique dishes like kulen and fiš paprikaš, and a rich cultural identity sustained through local festivals. The region’s natural diversity and heritage contribute to its uniqueness, but more promotion is needed for wider international recognition.

Tomica: Tourism stats show that Slavonia and Baranja are increasingly popular for year-round tourism. Baranja, in particular, has made great strides in tourism offerings, largely due to our wine and food. Rural tourism is attractive in smaller towns, and dining options often lean heavily on tradition. In cities, we have top-notch restaurants with talented chefs. Gastronomy is growing; critics are getting more serious, so chefs are, too. There’s room for improvement, and I see a bright future with students from the excellent Hospitality and Tourism School in Osijek and its Regional Competence Center.

What is a must-try for every visitor to Slavonia and Baranja?

Ivan: There are many dishes every visitor should try, but I’d highlight Baranja's traditional kulen, known for its rich flavour and spices, as well as fiš paprikaš, Slavonian sausages, and pork cracklings. As for wines, Graševina is a must, and the Ilok Traminac is also worth a taste.

Tomica: France and Italy have centuries-old culinary traditions and globally recognized dishes. We have great ingredients too, and just need to stay focused. I would definitely recommend that tourists try cured meats like kulen, sausages, bacon, švargl, cracklings… They should also try perkelt, fiš paprikaš, and carp on a spit for the unique taste and experience of how these dishes are made. Our task ahead is to bring back recipes from the old city taverns and integrate them into the modern dining scene. Recently, the famous Croatian chef Skoko visited and we biked along Europe’s longest riverside promenade. I showed him Osijek as the city of experiences, highlighted by events like HeadOnEast and Gourmet Festival.

How important is culinary localism? How do you balance the desire to experiment with modern cooking techniques and the region's traditional flavours and ingredients?

Ivan: Culinary localism is key to preserving the region’s identity because traditional dishes convey the area’s culture and history. Balancing a modern approach with tradition is achieved through contemporary techniques that enhance presentation while maintaining authenticity. This blend preserves the distinctive flavours of Slavonia and Baranja while adding freshness and creativity to appeal to modern food enthusiasts.

Tomica: We must keep tradition alive, as it tells our rural story and should be cherished in rural restaurants. Urban gastronomy, like in Osijek — a city known for refinement — should be sophisticated and modern. We should support chefs who reinterpret classic dishes; a good chef should embrace modern techniques and constantly set new challenges in the kitchen.

In your experience, are tourists visiting Slavonia and Baranja demanding guests? How do they react to the food in local restaurants?

Ivan: Tourists who visit Slavonia and Baranja are generally undemanding; they have genuine curiosity to explore local cuisine. Their reactions to traditional flavours in restaurants are largely positive. They appreciate authenticity and local ingredients, and are often delighted by the richness of local flavours.

Tomica: In my experience, guests usually expect less than what they receive and are pleasantly surprised by the food quality. For me, the guest is at the heart of it all. Menu prices are set in advance, regardless of a guest's status, I think they always deserve quality food and drink, a smile, kindness, hospitality — and not greed.

What would you recommend if I was eating in your restaurant for the first time?

Ivan: For a first-time guest, I’d recommend a recent dish I prepared for a tasting at the Danube Wine Festival in Ilok: a confit zander fillet on a celery and miso cream with a light Graševina sauce. For extra crunch, we offer a hazelnut crumble with pine needle and wild herb honey.

Tomica: I’m the chef at the Josić restaurant in Zmajevac, owned by Osijek native Damir Josić, the first person in Slavonia and Baranja to bring together a winery, tasting room, and restaurant. People love the combination of great food and top wine. Josić and I share a passion for winemaking and a culinary vision, and the accommodation options are getting better and better in the surduk (a street of wine cellars), where the restaurant and winery are located.

You are the first Croatian Disciples of Escoffier. How important is membership in such organisations, and why is staying up to date with global trends vital?

Ivan: Being part of the Escoffier organisation is a great honour, which validates years of learning and hard work. Our profession is unique in that it progresses daily, with high standards requiring constant awareness of global trends. As the first Croatian members, my brother and I are on the right path, which is vital for promoting the gastronomy of Slavonia and Baranja.

Tomica: I was invited to join Escoffier and am an honorary president of the Order. We cooked at the French Embassy for the occasion. Membership in such esteemed organisations shows that our work is recognised beyond our region. So far, I’ve cooked in over 70 hotels worldwide, with renowned chefs for highly discerning diners, and won many awards. My achievements speak for themselves.

You are brothers who chose the same profession. What is it like in the kitchen? Are you competitors, co-chefs, or brothers in the first place? Do you learn from each other, and would you like to one day run a restaurant together?

Ivan: I became a chef at Tomica’s suggestion — I initially wanted to be a pastry chef. Are we competitors? Well, in a brotherly way, sometimes we are (laughs), but we have distinctive styles. We often talk shop and exchange advice as fellow chefs. A shared restaurant would be a fantastic project — what a story that would be!

Tomica: First and foremost, we’re brothers. Although our culinary visions differ, we constantly encourage and help each other. Ivan has achieved great success in carving, and I’m genuinely proud of him. When it comes to a shared restaurant, you have to understand: chefs are egotistical, proud, intense, hectic… I worry it might put my relationship with my younger brother to the test (laughs).

Try the dishes of chef Tomica Đukić at the Josić restaurant-winery in Zmajevac, Baranja.

Try the dishes of chef Ivan Đukić at the Drvena bajka restaurant in Bilje, Baranja.