This delicacy received the protected designation of geographical origin and originality in the European Union in 2015

The best quality meat of mature pigs ground on an 8-millimeter plate, with the addition of salt, garlic, white pepper and top-quality Baranja sweet and hot paprika, mixed and stuffed into a pig’s appendix, in Croatia known as katica - this is the recipe for kulen in Baranja. After smoking it, wait six or more months for it to mature. And only then can we actually call it Baranja kulen.

Belje since 1915

The main difference between the kulen of Baranja and the Slavonian variety is the pepper that is added in Baranja. That’s in addition to the area where it’s made, of course. And its home is stunning. With its fish, paprika, vineyards, gorges, wineries and wines, forests brimming with game, the rivers Drava and Danube, Kopački Rit and Bansko hill… Baranja is simply a hedonistic paradise.

When it comes to Baranja kulen, it should be noted that this delicacy received the protected designation of geographical origin and originality in the European Union in 2015. And there are not many producers who can use the blue stamp on their kulen and call it this protected name. But one producer is very valuable and certainly the most deserving for the recognition of kulen in Croatia, as well as the protection of Baranja kulen in the EU.

This is Belje, nowadays known as the company Belje Plus, which is by far the largest producer of kulen, a tradition dating back to 1915. Thousands and thousands of kulens are produced each year in their Baranjka factory in Beli Manastir. They are stuffed manually and smoked in a natural way. Over the course of history, the only thing that has changed is the maturation process under controlled conditions, which allows for year-round production. Belje is synonymous with Baranja kulen. Head to the Winery and Cellar of Vina Belje in Kneževi Vinogradi (Ulica Šandora Petefija 2) to have a taste, or buy yours in shops throughout Croatia.

The family farm OPG Matijević in Suza is also responsible for the EU protection of the Baranja kulen name, which they have been producing since 2008. Hrvoje Matijević has kept the family recipe, continuing the long tradition. They always highlight the fact that they produce the most important raw materials for kulen themselves. In nearby Draž, they raise 150 to 170 pigs each year, while in Suza they produce their own spicy paprika. During these 15 years, the Matijević family made significant steps forward, first of all by investing in a production plant and kulen workshop, and then by entering the market. Matijević kulens have been decorating the shelves of the best shops in Zagreb, but also throughout Croatia. The place where their kulen is made and where you can have a taste is just as important, which is in Suza, at Ulica Košut Lajoša 10.

The Kuća Baranjskog kulena in Branjin Vrh is a significant development in the production of Baranja kulen, now all done up with EU funds into a kulen production centre. There are five organised and independent kulen production plants in one place. The facilities allow small producers to use their know-how and tradition in a registered plant and thus legally market their product. Kuća Baranjskog kulena is now home to family businesses such as OPG Stojković Milorad, OPG Zuber Jovica, OPG Stanković Slobodan and Poljoprivredni obrt Šarošković. In the tasting room at Svetog Križa 61 in Branjin Vrh you can taste and buy kulen directly from these producers.

OPG Petar Dobrovac is located at the entrance to Kneževi Vinogradi from the direction of Osijek. This long-standing kulen producer has been a regular exhibitor at many fairs and events in Baranja. It is quite difficult to pass by Petar's stand and not stop for a taste of the delicious kulen and end up with a piece of your own. Dobrovac kulen is produced and usually sold at their doorstep at Glavna ulica 11 in Kneževi Vinogradi.

The Jagodnjak Kulenijada

The only right conclusion to the story of Baranja kulen is an event where this delicacy plays the lead role. The Jagodnjak Kulenijada (kulen fest) has been taking place at the beginning of June for more than 20 years. This is where small producers gather or send their kulen for evaluations. If they receive good grades, it opens up possibilities for them to start their own production plants for kulen and other cured meats.

A SMALL BUT IMPORTANT DIFFERENCE

The main difference between the kulen of Baranja and the Slavonian variety is the pepper that is added in Baranja.

Written by: Igor Mikulić