Osijek TOP 10 or “Laganini” – living it easy Published 15/05/2024

Osijek TOP 10 or “Laganini” – living it easy

A walk through the Baroque Fortress, enjoying culture with traces from ancient Mursa, gastronomy for even the most discerning palates, relaxing under the green arches of the park and in beach bars, with your feet in the Drava sand... all this and even more awaits you in the Slavonian capital of Osijek, where the phrase slowliving, which translated into city parlance reads "laganini", actually describes the life philosophy of the city, the rhythm of which you will easily catch at the following ten stations:

1. Her Majesty, the Fortress

Every true (cultural) tourist should start his Osijek adventure in the baroque part of the city, the Fortress. Erected at the beginning of the 18th century by the powerful Habsburgs, today the fortress is ruled by students, high school students and numerous intending travelers. The walk starts from its center, Holy Trinity Square, which is decorated with the eponymous monument to the fight against the plague (also known as the Plague Pillar), as well as the most beautiful examples of baroque architecture not only in Osijek but also in this part of Europe. After a short break on one of the many terraces in Kuhačeva Street, head to the Water Gates, the only preserved entrance to the Fortress. There you will be enchanted by the remains of the star-shaped walls - a silent testimony of the former defensive role.

2. Time travel

The fortress will easily quench even the greatest thirst for knowledge and cultural elevation. In addition to being a kind of open-air museum itself, on its main square you will find two important guardians of historical heritage: the Museum of Slavonia and the Archaeological Museum. Let them take you through prehistoric settlements, Roman traces and introduce you to not so long ago generations of Osijek residents. For a slightly different history, dive into the hidden depths of the Water World Exhibition conveniently located near the Water Gate. Created as a hobby of an enthusiast, the Exhibition represents only three percent of the interesting collection, which also includes fossils from the former Pannonian Sea.

3. Zen in greenery

After the stone and paved streets, it's time to spend time in nature. If you are already wondering how the people of Osijek are so relaxed, the answer may be hidden in the ideal combination of tranquility and greenery and the hustle and bustle of the city. This is confirmed by the fact that there are more parks than squares in the city. The largest is the Perivoj of King Tomislav, under whose centuries-old canopies hide numerous paths, benches and two children's playgrounds. In the immediate vicinity is the romantic Park of King Petar Krešimir IV, and a little further on is the Park of King Držislav, in the shade of which rests an interesting monument to the great writer Miroslav Krleža and the oldest vine in the world.

4. Seductive Art nouveau and Freemasonry

After seeing the sights of the Fortress and walking through the green oases, you have reached, dare we say, the most beautiful and famous street in the city, the European Avenue. On its northern side stretches the famous Art Nouveau series of multi-storey buildings with front gardens from the beginning of the 20th century. The previous owners were well-known Osijek industrialists, lawyers and other dignitaries who followed Viennese and Budapest fashion. Sakuntala Park is located under the pearl of Art Nouveau style, the "Urania" cinema building from 1912, whose flowery hill is decorated with the heroine of the same name from the ancient Indian epic "Mahābhārata". At the entrance to the park, you will be greeted by two sphinxes, and if you look up to the top of the cinema roof, you will see a relief and a third one. The Urania cinema was the headquarters of the Masonic lodge, and today, in addition to enjoying movies and theater performances, it also offers the most delicious snacks in the restaurant called "Lumiere".

5. Neo-Gothic beauty

It is difficult to remain indifferent in front of the imposing co-cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, the patrons of the city. The neo-Gothic beauty reaches 90 meters high and is the second highest church in the country. It was built in a truly impressive period of only four years (1894 - 1898), and has approximately three and a half million red bricks. Its interior is even more luxurious. Namely, it was painted by the great Croatian painter Mirko Rački. And don't worry - water fountains and griffins at the entrance will let you see it for free.

6. Tales from the animal kingdom

From Osijek's main square at the foot of the co-cathedral, go down Ribarska street to the river. Walking west towards the interesting replica watermill on the Drava, you might think you hear the roar of the "King of Animals" in the distance. You will soon be greeted by a free eco-ferry "Kompa" that will take you from the Upper town to the left bank of the Drava and the largest zoo in Croatia. More than 80 species live in this 11-hectare large animal kingdom. It is interesting that the people of Osijek are happy to participate in naming the animal newborns. A visit to this garden is a real recipe for a family adventure!

7. Carpe diem

The longest river promenade in Croatia, the "Promenada" along the Drava River, is an ideal place for walking, cycling from the Upper to the Lower Town, running or relaxing with the most beautiful view. Rent city bikes and pedal freely along the left and right banks, which are connected by one of the most famous symbols of the city, the Pedestrian Bridge. After recreation, treat yourself to shopping in the "Mall of Osijek" or "Portanova" shopping centre, which houses the "Cinestar" cinema and a bowling alley. You can also find entertainment in the city center, where the beloved old "Urania" cinema, numerous cafes, boutiques, restaurants and souvenir shops are located.

8. Love goes through the stomach

Locals know that the fastest way to love, goes through the stomach. From traditional Slavonian dishes such as "fish-paprikash" to international delicacies in trendy restaurants, everyone can find something for themselves. Taste the seasonal menu in the restaurant "Waldinger" from the Michelin guide, try fish specialties on the Drava river in the restaurant "Kompa" or in the restaurant boat "Projekt 9". Head to the left bank to the rustic and popular "čarda"-style tavern "Kod Baranjca" or discover the fusion cuisine of the restaurant "Lulu" in Sunčana Street. Pair the dish with top wines from this fruitful region, and if you want to take a bottle back to your area, head to the Vinita wine shop. Nearby is the main Osijek market, which hides the real wealth of smells and tastes of the entire region.

9. Night life

When asked where to go out in Osijek, everyone will tell you the same thing - to the Tvrđa old town. There are pubs like "Beertija" and "Beckers", cafes and night clubs like "Merlon" and "Bulart 1887" and many other places with different music repertoires. Do not miss the opportunity to taste the excellent craft beers of the local brewing masters "Beckers", as well as the legendary Osijek beer, a symbol of the beer tradition of this region. If you find yourself in the city during the summer months, you can find an evening party, and perhaps a night swim, on the sandy beach "Copacabana".

10. Pearls hidden in plain sight

If everything listed above is not enough for you, Osijek offers many not-so-hidden pearls in the open air. The city is proud of its unofficial symbols, and one of the newer ones is "Crveni fićo" (the Red Fiat) - an installation at the intersection of Vukovarska and Trpimir roads that pays tribute to a real event from the Homeland War. Then one of the brave people from Osijek parked his little "Fiat 500" in front of an enemy tank as a sign of protest and thus went down in history. In the city center, on Trg slobode square, look for the sculpture "the Walker", a dedicated to the writer August Cesarec, whose silhouette also adorns the nearby pedestrian traffic lights. Arm yourself with your smartphone and look for sculptures of Pablo Picasso and Franjo Krežma or visit Oscar Nemon's statue "Mother and Child" in memory of the victims of the Second World War.

Text written by: Veronika Završki


Osijek